or: How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love Washing My Hands
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| COVID-19 Empty City Blues (Ebisucho, Hiroshima Prefecture) |
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March marked my third time returning to Japan, with intentions to bear all the hallmark qualities of a strong sequel: leaning into the themes that made the originals a hit, but with more flair and a confidence in the familiar. Of course with the delicious irony that only grows from betraying such a conceit, Episode III was drastically derailed by the novel coronavirus.
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| Rainy days in Tokyo raise memories of things I've never experienced. (Ginza, Tokyo Prefecture) |
Angela and I could have been the poster children for relentless hand-washing. Equipped with face-masks and obsessive social distancing, we made the most of our time abroad. This is a doozy of a post so thank you for getting as far as you make it! Take breaks and come back!
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| A pair of tawny owls doing their best to social distance. (Harajuku, Tokyo Prefecture) |
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| Kayama-san are you sure that's the best way to store your homemade spirits for pouring cocktails. (Bar BenFiddich, Tokyo Prefecture) |
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| Be wary of ordering bartender's choice lest ye get served a freaking terrarium instead. (Bar BenFiddich, Tokyo Prefecture) |
After coughing up the exorbitant membership fee last year, it'd be fiscally irresponsible to pass through Tokyo without visiting B-PUMP. Last year I fanboyed over Tomoa Narasaki and Akiyo Noguchi. This year I meet another Olympian, Mia Krampl. What a world! Enrico, who now lives here, comes out to meet me for a quick sesh. It doesn't matter where we go. Travel is so much better seeing old friends.
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| Let's pick up right where we left off. For a minute it's like nothing's changed in this crazy world. (Ogikubo, Tokyo Prefecture) |
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Shortly afterwards we head northward to Hokkaido, where I continue my slapstick comedy routine of skiing with a shredded LCL. In the land of powder and glades I snowboard gingerly through, a grizzled veteran feeling very much like a greenhorn again.
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| The stately Mount Yotei is unperturbed by the latest plight of civilization. (Niseko, Hokkaido Prefecture) |
This year is a record-breaking low snow season, but that doesn't inhibit my impeccable intuition as I unerringly lead us to all the powder stashes on the mountain. On an unrelated note, there strangely are a lot of flat off-pistes we have to hike out of.
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| Ange reconsidering letting me lead-- and also our relationship-- as she trudges her way out of the glades. (Niseko, Hokkaido Prefecture) |
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| In efforts to practice social distancing, we have downsized our ski lifts into single seaters. (Niseko, Hokkaido Prefecture) |
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| Channeling our inner Daft Punk. Icy conditions on the last night skiing of the season. (Niseko, Hokkaido Prefecture) |
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| A brimming regional dish aptly named soup curry because as you can see there is a lot of soup and curry in here. (Sapporo, Hokkaido Prefecture) |
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| I shall eat all the oysters and all amongst their people shall tremble and will know me as kakibakemono, the devourer of worlds. (Gotsubo, Hokkaido Prefecture) |
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At this point The United States began upticking in virus cases. The government issues an appealing warning to return home and shelter in place indefinitely. Ange and I make the tough decision of continuing in a land where wearing a face-mask is standard and in the interest of hygiene, not a political squabble. Where social distancing and also treating your fellow citizens with commonality is the norm, and where every storefront provides hand sanitizer with no concern of theft or exploitation. It's cherry blossom season in Kyoto.
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| I know, cherry blossoms are over-photographed. I apologize for my transgression. (Arashiyama, Kyoto Prefecture) |
Japanese food specialties are highly demarcated through its regions and it's a never-ending quest to experience it all. I dutifully do my part.
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| Okonomiyaki is great when you want a tasty dish cooked in front of you and just absolutely need to mainline sodium. (Yamamoto Mambo, Kyoto Prefecture) |
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| Teishoku settings are so simple yet comforting. (Tenryuji Shigetsu, Kyoto Prefecture) |
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| A legion of food bloggers seethe in fury at my horrible flatlay. (Ginpuku, Kyoto Prefecture) |
Kyoto is my top city in Japan (although it's got competition now...). We flit about its neighbourhoods, me showing Ange all my favourite spots and finding some new gems along the way. I'm not fond of snapping pictures of tourist sites that are easily googled, but I'll definitely share this here random tree for ya.
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| The Japanese cypress. Truly the best for its artfulness, fragrance, and looking like it's about to go super saiyan. (Arashiyama, Kyoto Prefecture) |
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| In the sunset hours in a copse of saplings a family of dryads in conviviality. (Kimono Forest, Kyoto Prefecture) |
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| komorebi. Sunlight filtering through the trees is so soothing that the Japanese invented a word for it. (Gioji, Kyoto Prefecture) |
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| Alright, one tourist photo. But you gotta understand man, this path is never empty that this almost feels apocalyptic. (Fushimi Inari, Kyoto Prefecture) |
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| Angela I thought you wanted dinner how did we end up trapped within a shodo painting with Sigur Rós vibing in the background. (UZU, Kyoto Prefecture) |
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| A pair of magicians hailing from the City of Light pour some of it out. Santé mec! (L'Escamoteur, Kyoto Prefecture) |
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We motor eastward, to the land of rampant deer. The city of Nara is my first time patronizing traditional inns called ryokans. I've always traveled frugally through youth hostels and budget hotels, but the caliber of any Japanese accommodation is exceptional. Imagine my surprise when discovering an actual splurge-type vacation retreat like a ryokan can be EVEN BETTER?!
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| Angela rocking her yukata in our messy room. (New Wakasa, Nara Prefecture) |
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| Yes, waiter? This meal is great and all but what would be really nice is if it could have just one more dish. (New Wakasa, Nara Prefecture) |
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| This was prepared at an omelette station similar to those at American breakfast buffets. But with added perfection. (New Wakasa, Nara Prefecture) |
The poor city animals in Japan have definitely been suffering from a lack of tourists and free food. Not feeding the animals isn't really a concept here.
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| Woohh, the deer sure are friendly and numerous are you sure you--wup okay we're breaking out the biscuits... (Nara Park, Nara Prefecture) |
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| You're out of ammo! Try to make them bow! Bob and weave!! Float like butterfly! (Nara Park, Nara Prefecture) |
Nara surprises me with a ton of great gems including a solid climbing gym and, in my humble opinion, a destination bar.
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| The hold density in old-school gyms really revs my engine. (Noboriko, Nara Prefecture) |
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| Homemade pottery serveware and wood highlight Japan's pride in showcasing local products. (Lamp Bar, Nara Prefecture) |
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| The best negroni I've ever had with a hinoki garnish puts Nara on the map for me. (Lamp Bar, Nara Prefecture) |
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Our path to Himeji leads us to a stop at Kobe. Y'all know what's comin'.
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| Wait, how much does this cost again? Ha ha ha... (EiKiChi, Kobe City) |
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| Kobe beef sushi struts its marbling like a Roman statue. (EiKiChi, Kobe City) |
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| This bucolic arrangement aesthetically resonates with the very fiber of my being. (Himeji Castle, Hyogo Prefecture) |
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| Shachi gargoyles protect the castle from fire and spirits (Okayama Castle, Okayama Prefecture) |
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| The architecture of Japanese rooftops a vestige of eras in antiquity (Kurashiki, Okayama Prefecture) |
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| A stroll through memory lane. More recollections of things I've never experienced. (Kurashiki, Okayama Prefecture) |
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The feudal vibes of Okayama linger with me and give me calm. It's bittersweet to move onward. There's so much beauty in Japan that sometimes I just can't take it. Southwards to Takamatsu and the best garden in the world.
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| A heron and a school of koi help me with my awful photo composition skills. (Ritsurin Garden, Kagawa Prefecture) |
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| Koi going mental as Angela tantalizes them with dango. She has not learned her lesson on feeding wildlife. (Ritsurin Garden, Kagawa Prefecture) |
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| The ocean graciously opens up a path to Benten Island during low tide. (Angel Road, Shodoshima) |
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| Guys. Listen, just hear me out okay? Okay listen. Just- okay. Guys. Hold on. Hey- yup, just- guys. Just hear me out: Soy Sauce Ice Cream. Utterly delicious. (Marukin Factory, Shodoshima) |
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| I love noodles in all its glorious forms. (Sanuki, Kagawa Prefecture) |
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| First you eat the cornutus, phase two cook rice in its broth. (Yushokushukawaraku, Ehime Prefecture) |
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| Taimeshi sea bream for maximum sea flavour. It could have used about eight more shiso leaf garnishes though. (Kadoya, Ehime Prefecture) |
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To Hiroshima and the regretful terminus of our long journey. The vibes in this town are amazing. Great climbing gyms and chill culture. A vibrant metropolis with a solemn historical overcast. May there be peace on Earth forever.
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| Have I mentioned how much I love these trees? Seriously. Power level over 9000 (Onomichi, Hiroshima Prefecture) |
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| The famous floating torii gate of Itsukushima is under renovation for the Summer Olympics, so here's a photo of a deer instead. (Itsukushima, Hiroshima Prefecture) |
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| The deer here have got way more chill. (Itsukushima, Hiroshima Prefecture) |
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| We all bow to enter. A samurai and a peasant are equal here. Also, there's smoked pine inside a bubble on top of your drink. (Bar Alegre, Hiroshima Prefecture) |
This was the end of our eventful trip. If you've made it this far, I commend you and hope you had a fun journey. Reach out to me with the secret word 'hinoki' and you get a gold star :)
Arigatou gozaimashita.
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| I already love basic airline food. You don't need to wow me with premium class dining by your Michelin-starred chef. Really. Fine if you insist. |
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| Unlimited sake and lay-flat bedding? How do you return to economy after this? |
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