Somewhere in Massachusetts 2020

Jan flexes on a walrus bone... (Hard as an Oosik, The Batcave)

The big-brain play for Labor Day is Farley Ledges, betting on everyone else betting on Rumney. We warm up on some unknowns and then I gun the rope on Cuttlefish. Ange cleans it up and I take a burn on Octopus Balls. I fall before the crux because my hand-jam game is weak, and then cruise the crux. Robbed of another send, classic Schmosby.

September 3, 2020 Ticklist
Unknown Right of Cuttlefish	Lead / Flash	Farley Ledges > Wall of Early Morning Light	5.8(?) Sport
Cuttlefish	Lead / Day Flash	Farley Ledges > Wall of Early Morning Light	5.11a Sport
Octopus Balls	Lead / 1-hang	Farley Ledges > Wall of Early Morning Light	5.12a Sport

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As with all proper finales, a vivid verdant resounding crescendo of colour ushers out the last of this unique stark summer (Octopus Balls, Wall of Early Morning Light) 📷: vykoukal.jan

Me and Ange sleepily meet up with everyone else. Jan, Maryam, Ellen and Kendra got to the crag by 3:00am, I'm pretty sure. Ange sends the easy line inside the Batcave. What a unique experience! I warm up on an unknown adventurous climb across from Airblast, and then Cuttlefish, and then put down Octopus Balls.

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September 4, 2020 Ticklist
Unknown Arete	Lead / Onsight	Farley Ledges > Batcave	5.8(?) Sport
Cuttlefish	Lead / Day Flash	Farley Ledges > Wall of Early Morning Light	5.11a Sport
Octopus Balls	Lead / Redpoint	Farley Ledges > Wall of Early Morning Light	5.12a Sport

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Trying hard to look casual after embarassingly gassing out on a 3-bolt climb (Gorilla Biscuits, Crag X)📷: wantsomegraham

The next day Mike meets up with us to do some trad at the Upper Tier. James and Anqi drive up from NJ to meet us. I warm up on Eyeopener and then head upstairs with Mike. He plugs up a crazy dihedral line and I strugglebus on follow. 

This is the minimum amount of gear I need to put in one spot to feel safe. (Upper Tier, Farley Ledges)

Mike puts up the famed Yosemite Crack and I follow. Classic. Me and Mike size up another random climb and conclude it should be quite chill, fun and easy. Fast-forward to my legs shaking like Elvis, toeing in on a 20-foot slab runout making peace with my life.

Mike has absolutely no fear. Not a problem because I'm scared pants-less for the both of us. (Unknown Dihedral, Upper Tier) 📷: wantsomegraham

Making love to the rock is a sure-fire way to stay on. (Yosemite Crack, Upper Tier) 📷: vykoukal.jan

September 5, 2020 Ticklist
Unknown	Lead / Day Flash	Farley Ledges > Wall of Early Morning Light	5.6 Sport
Eyeopener	Lead / Day Flash	Farley Ledges > Wall of Early Morning Light	5.8 Sport
Unknown Dihedral	Follow / Flash	Farley Ledges > Upper Tier	5.8(?) Trad
Unknown Slab	Lead / Onsight	Farley Ledges > Upper Tier	5.10a(?) Trad
Yosemite Crack	Follow / Flash	Farley Ledges > Upper Tier	5.9 Trad

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When you're The Jan-inator, you don't need good jugs when there are plenty of crappy slopers at your disposal. (All's Well That Ends Wide, Crag X)

Jan tests out a new tantric yoga pose on the wall. (All's Well That Ends Wide, Crag X)

Our last day was spent at the mysterious Crag X. The long hike in is totally worth it for the solitude and varied climbing. Tip of the hat to WMCC, this place is killer. I set James and Anqi up and then follow Jan on Uneasy Lies the Head. Mike, Ange, James, all take a spin.

Angela crushes her first 5.10a onsight in front of a fantastic lens flare. (Alice in Rockland, Xtra Crag)

Jan and I eye an unknown arete that turns out later to be Gorilla Biscuits. After a few burns Jan scoots up the line. He lowers down and tantalizes me with encouraging words of being able to flash it. I hang more times than him. Eventually I send it with the sole motivation of retrieving my draws. The secret to climbing 5.12 is to roll up to crags without a topo and stick-clip half the bolts on unidentified lines that your friends sandbag as mid-11.

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Jan and crew say their goodbyes as they head down for the weekend. James and Anqi stick around as I send Ange up her first 5.10 onsight!

September 6, 2020 Ticklist
Act One, Scene One	Lead / Onsight	Farley Ledges > Crag X	5.8 Sport
Uneasy Lies the Head	Lead / Onsight	Farley Ledges > Crag X	5.8+ Sport
Gorilla Biscuits	Lead / Fell/Hung	Farley Ledges > Crag X	5.12a Sport
Gorilla Biscuits	Lead / Redpoint	Farley Ledges > Crag X	5.12a Sport

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Bonus vid from the last Farley trip. Peep it! Smash that Like and Subscribe fam!!

I finally get to hang out with James since his long stint in China. We go on a hike across the border in New Hampshire before he drives home. Good times with a good crew. Me and Angela slowly and sadly pack up the car. Tomorrow, we continue our journey northwards, towards Rumney.

Ange is comfortable enough in boots and a backpack on this famous boulder (Speed of Life, Farley Ledges)

James and Anqi not quite getting the 'hang' of going for a hike in the woods. (Pisgah State Park, New Hampshire)