Eyeless in Gaza 2022

The intrepid navigatrix sails upward through a seam of granite. (The Great Escape, Shagg Crag)

Jane invites me on an excursion to New England this weekend on her whirlwind tour before leaving New York. I jump at the chance to finally visit the famed Shagg Crag and revisit my favourite crag in the world, Rumney (yeah, it's Rumney. And what?).

40 years of experience allows Alex to be comfortable in any shape.
(Meltdown, Shagg Crag)  

We meet Jason, Alex and Will at the parking lot. I am inordinately psyched to pull onto possibly the only overhung granite crag of its kind. Jane and Alex quest off in exploration as Will and I tie in, warming up methodically. Jason off to the side, unperturbable, peerless in virtue, benevolently supports everyone as he himself gets into gear. Overwhelmed with good vibes from an extraordinary crew I somehow take down my project in a few tries.

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June 24, 2022 Ticklist
The Great Escape	Lead / Onsight	Maine > Shagg Crag	5.10b/c Sport
Short Bob	Lead / Fell/Hung	Maine > Shagg Crag	5.12a Sport
Meltdown	Lead / Fell/Hung	Maine > Shagg Crag	5.12c Sport
Meltdown	Lead / Fell/Hung	Maine > Shagg Crag	5.12c Sport
Meltdown	Lead / Redpoint	Maine > Shagg Crag	5.12c Sport

...

After warming up but mostly chuffing on Ginseng, I tie into Meltdown again to get the send footage. To my relief it goes much smoother than the first time. Nicole joins us in good spirits despite getting lost on the approach. I punt at the chains on Ginseng and then mercilessly throw myself off all the climbs the rest of today.

Will locks into a stance on a stellar destination climb.
(Ginseng, Shagg Crag)

Rolling waves of granite envelope Alex as he calmly surveys the hardest climb anyone's working today.
(Shagg It, Shagg Crag)

I spy Nicole through the lush growth on an uncharacteristically vertical line.
(Rough Rhino, Shagg Crag)

June 25, 2022 Ticklist
Ginseng Route	Lead / Fell/Hung	Maine > Shagg Crag	5.12b Sport
Meltdown	Lead / Redpoint	Maine > Shagg Crag	5.12c Sport
Ginseng Route	Lead / Fell/Hung	Maine > Shagg Crag	5.12b Sport
Short Bob	Lead / Fell/Hung	Maine > Shagg Crag	5.12a Sport
Cell Block D	Lead / Fell/Hung	Maine > Shagg Crag	5.12b Sport

...

Our last day at Shagg and I'm heckin' worked from two days of trying. Awash with stoke and group support I tie in again despite not intending to climb. I finally dial in my beta and then take down Ginseng with absolute (and embarassing) rage. Totally satisfied I spend the rest of the day in gratitude and team spirit. What a beautiful place!

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It looks like we're taking an unsuccessful selfie at a funny angle but really I'm taking a photo of a dragonfly unsuccessfully.
(Little Concord Pond, Woodstock) 📸: @janevhsu

Sending climbs is phenomenal but honest to god these moments are what climbing truly means to me. Love you guys.
(Little Concord Pond, Woodstock)

Why of course Alex we'll drop you off at Portland Airport out of the goodness of our hearts!
There certainly was nothing my tourist butt wanted to get in that city.
(High Roller Lobster, Portland)

June 26, 2022 Ticklist
Ginseng Route	Lead / Fell/Hung	Maine > Shagg Crag	5.12b Sport
Ginseng Route	Lead / Redpoint	Maine > Shagg Crag	5.12b Sport

...

We roll into Rumney but bad weather insists we look for climbing elsewhere. We drive to Sundown Ledge which was another crag on my list. Jason carefully curates our climbs as me and Jane happily tie in.

Name something that can be an abomination and yet a gift from god at the same time? Jason's stickclip.
(Dikenstein, Sundown Ledge) 

Jane eyes up the first of the cruxes on this absolute classic.
(Eyeless in Gaza, Sundown Ledge)

Jason's enormous physique looks uncannily at home inside this chimney.
(Eyeless in Gaza, Sundown Ledge)

This young Laetiporus Sulphureus probably would've cost $50 at the local farmer's market. It really tasted like chicken!
(Sundown Ledge, Kancamangus)

June 27, 2022 Ticklist
Dikenstein	Lead / Onsight	Kancamangus > Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff	5.11c Sport
Eyeless in Gaza	Lead / Fell/Hung	Kancamangus > Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff	5.12b Sport
Eyeless in Gaza	Lead / Fell/Hung	Kancamangus > Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff	5.12b Sport

...

Whoa-ho-ho! You really thought I'd forget a cat tax this post?
(Barn Door Hostel, Rumney)

Jane coyly peers up at this gorgeous schist wall (Bonsai, Rumney)

Nicole uses that Shagg Crag overhang practice to clip up these lines. (Kamikazee, Bonsai)

Our trip's last day and first day in Rumney. Fifth grueling day of straight climbing and I'm totally pooped. Social Outcast is now perma-bolted and the crag was empty so there was no way I'd pass up a spin. I cruise it with utter ease, a vast change from chuffing on it over and over three years ago. Uncertain what else to do, I tie into the short-looking Pretzel Logic and miraculously onsight it.

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June 28, 2022 Ticklist
Centerpiece	Lead / Onsight	Rumney > Bonsai	5.10d Sport
Social Outcast	Lead / Redpoint	Rumney > Bonsai	5.12a Sport
Social Distortion	Lead / Fell/Hung	Rumney > Bonsai	5.12a/b Sport
Pretzel Logic	Lead / Onsight	Rumney > Bonsai	5.12a Sport

...

With no wish to be greedy, I swiftly pack up my climbing gear and belay the gals on their climbs before we call it a day and start the long drive back home. I'm so happy and grateful to meet amazing people, sick climbs, and such fulfilling nature. Thoughts of returning are primed in my mind. Until next time New England. Here are some photos of wild animals.

Macrobdella decora leeches allegedly won't suck your blood if it has a choice but I never trust the media these days.
(Little Concord Pond, Woodstock)

The ol' slippery-ribbity showing me how to suntan. (Little Concord Pond, Woodstock)

A regretti-spaghetti curiously cranes its neck up at my many-limbed body. (Woodstock, Maine)

The mostly-throaty warty mcToady refuses to smile for the camera. (Woodstock, Maine)